[Lab] yellow jackets and electricity

bentfork at gmail.com bentfork at gmail.com
Mon Aug 29 18:02:20 EDT 2011 

I'm all for blasting the yellow and black beasts out of the air.  I've had
success with the "wasp decoy nest" they do seem to work.  Now my experience
has been that they don't tend to nest near a existing nest.  If you have a
problem already I don't think it will help.

Ok, back to blasting things...

There was a article last year about a group that was blasting mosquitoes
with a laser.  They had some novel imaging techniques.
http://www.wired.com/epicenter/2010/02/death-star-laser-zaps-mosqitoes-dead/



On 29 August 2011 17:44, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com> wrote:

> Those laser diodes aren't too expensive.
>
> But I guess I need current drivers for 30.00 (that's 2 drivers).
>
> I think I need a heat sink (45.00?) and perhaps a lens (5.00).
>
> I think if it could work it could make for a pretty effective way of
> stopping the yellow jackets. It would just be a matter of putting this
> device near where they enter their nest and it would (in theory get rid of
> the community).
>
> These pests are an ongoing problem so I am prepared to come up with a
> device even it if take some time and I have to learn a few things. As it
> stands every time I have to deal with the little buggers it takes plenty of
> time to assess, take precautions and use various means to combat them and
> follow up.
>
> The only concern I have for the laser is it's dangerous for humans. I
> suppose if the lens were dropped then it would only do damage at close
> range. Perhaps there could be a tube they have to get through and the laser
> is in there and the beam can't get out.
>
> This laser thing is worth looking into since it could have other
> applications...
>
> I ordered a disposable camera for about 12 bucks with shipping. That might
> work too.
>
> Either way I think I need a trigger to only deliver the punch when the
> animal is in the right area. (So the thing can run for a while on
> batteries). Like Michael says, if there is continuous charge on the grid (in
> the high voltage case), it will discharge on contact. Hmmm, that's sounding
> better all the time, all I have to do is keep the capacitor charged.
>
> I suppose I might not get lucky and reuse this thing since they may not
> have an exclusive access point. It's just that this time they're in the roof
> and I can't use my usual means.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 4:56 PM, Paul & Andrea Mumby <themumbys at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> They are diodes. You just give them constant voltage like an LED. Mind you
>> some need to be pulsed instead of constant.
>>
>> Here are some ebay links:
>>
>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LOT-5-808nm-high-power-burning-laser-diode-1-watt-/170681506053?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bd691905
>>
>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/808nm-1000-mw-high-power-burning-laser-diode-1-watt-/180709833539?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a13253b43
>>
>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-808nm-1W-BLUE-DPSS-HIGH-POWER-BURNING-LASER-DIODE-/230664842498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b4b22d02
>>
>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-808nm-1W-YAG-IR-DPSS-HIGH-POWER-BURNING-LASER-DIODE-/230664835850?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b4b2130a
>>
>> This one is a driver:
>>
>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-Laser-Diode-Drivers-405nm-445nm-burning-808nm-650nm-/120767948391?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1e54a667
>>
>> Also to note you need to cool these diodes with something (normally they
>> get mounted into an aluminum laser body, or into an aluminum heatsink to
>> keep them cool)
>>
>> They are only 1W so enough to burn paper, burn wood, or light small fires,
>> but to an insect I suspect it would be devastating (especially if you could
>> hit it with a bunch at once).
>>
>> - Paul
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 2:17 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I can't seem to find those lasers on ebay. Dont I need to build a power
>>> supply to drive those?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 2:04 PM, Paul & Andrea Mumby <
>>> themumbys at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Ooh, after hearing Aaron's suggestion about a laser (in the ultrasonic
>>>> sensor thread). Why not use some cheap 1W laser diodes off ebay, make an
>>>> arrangement that covers the opening so they have to fly through the beam.
>>>> Would allow them to pass through unlike a mesh/screen and might be easier to
>>>> catch them with (plus will allow the dead to fall out easier since no
>>>> physical mesh there). Might need a few diodes but you can get like 50 packs
>>>> for $20 on ebay from china lol...
>>>>
>>>> It can be your anti-wasp-laser-defense-sysem ;)
>>>>
>>>> - Paul
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:10 PM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I would probably swap out the batteries for a DC connection to a wall
>>>>> wart, but you may want to monitor the wall wart's temperature.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:05 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You mean just tape the on button and put it near the entrance? I
>>>>>> wonder how far that would go on one set of batteries?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:00 PM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Instead of a full DIY what about those $10 "tennis racket"-esque
>>>>>>> electric mosquito killers?  They might not be strong enough to kill bees but
>>>>>>> maybe just a capacitor change would be sufficient...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:58 AM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Well the beez or going into the ceiling. So I figured putting a mesh
>>>>>>>> across their entrance would work. If I zap them on the way up but not down
>>>>>>>> then the'd just fall from there.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:50 AM, mike Jans <mjans at live.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Make sure your design allows for the dead to fall down and not
>>>>>>>>> clog the mesh. From my experience with bees, when something gets in close to
>>>>>>>>> their front door, they'll investigate immediately. From the traffic in the
>>>>>>>>> video, that might become an issue. Perhaps make it adjustable. In the
>>>>>>>>> beginning, you might sacrifice some kills for smooth operation. Later, you
>>>>>>>>> adjust for a more thorough deathrate.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>>>>>> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:42:24 -0400
>>>>>>>>> From: krazatchu at hotmail.com
>>>>>>>>> To: lab at artengine.ca
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Lab] yellow jackets and electricity
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> You don't need to detect them at all...
>>>>>>>>> Just use two parallel meshes at a distance of about 3/4 the length
>>>>>>>>> of a yellow jacket...
>>>>>>>>> With opposing charges on the meshes, the yellow jackets become the
>>>>>>>>> trigger...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> This is not uncommon in Korea for mosquitoes...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Koolatron-Lentek-Biteshield-RZ02-Electronic/dp/B000H7CUSQ
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> And be careful with camera flashes, they can really hurt (and
>>>>>>>>> kill)...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Michael
>>>>>>>>> http://NoMiDesign.net/
>>>>>>>>> http://krazatchu.ca/
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 8/29/2011 11:31 AM, Darcy Whyte wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I don't think the Squirrels are reading my blog so we should be
>>>>>>>>> okay.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I've already got some parts on order (including a disposable
>>>>>>>>> camera to get a zapper out).
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I'm a little concerned about how I will detect when they are in
>>>>>>>>> contact with the mesh. Perhaps just a motion detector.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I just took some video of the little buggers:
>>>>>>>>> http://mambohead.com/2011/08/arduino-bug-zapper-yellow-jacket-removal/
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  As you can see, they're going up a hole in the ceiling.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  The chemical idea might work but can it go uphill into the
>>>>>>>>> ceiling? I guess I have to seal the hole after I get rid of them.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 10:02 AM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com
>>>>>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> An Arduino-powered stun gun is not something I would want to fall
>>>>>>>>> into the hands of a species as devious as the squirrels ;)
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  If it's not high powered enough, and you're not against using
>>>>>>>>> chemicals, I dealt with a nasty bee (my fiancee is allergic) problem in my
>>>>>>>>> backyard using Raid "One Shot" wasp killer.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Tom
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:19 AM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com
>>>>>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Hi Richard,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Thanks for the note.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I figured keeping a coil charged might be expensive on the
>>>>>>>>> batteries. Seems the next place to go is keeping a capacitor charged. As I
>>>>>>>>> mentioned in the blog post, a disposable camera may have enough hardware to
>>>>>>>>> do this. May not be as high a voltage but it might work.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  So it just comes down to triggering the high voltage thing.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I'm all ears on how to trigger it but I figured I could just use
>>>>>>>>> an arduino because the labor content may be lower. There might be something
>>>>>>>>> that can save some pennies but I think for the pain a community of yellow
>>>>>>>>> jackets causes, it's okay if it uses an arduino for a couple days.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Even if the Squirrels steal it.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Darcy
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 8:59 PM, Richard Guy Briggs <
>>>>>>>>> rgb at tricolour.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 01:32:19PM -0700, Darcy Whyte wrote:
>>>>>>>>> > What about this angle:
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > A motion detector of some sort.
>>>>>>>>> > a coil
>>>>>>>>> > a relay
>>>>>>>>> > a 6v battery
>>>>>>>>> > a wire grid over the opening
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > When a yellow jacket is detected we charge the coil and then let
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> > discharge through the grid.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I think the idea is to keep it charged so that it does its work on
>>>>>>>>> contact.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> > The relay is to isolate an arduino from the coil charging
>>>>>>>>> action...
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > What sort of coil would I need?
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > If this will work at all....
>>>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>>> > Also, what about detecting the bug when it touches the grid? I
>>>>>>>>> suppose the
>>>>>>>>> > problem with that is I'd need to isolate it from the arduino
>>>>>>>>> somehow since
>>>>>>>>> > the high voltage will zap the arduino too....
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  Does it really need an arduino, or just a wired power supply and a
>>>>>>>>> way
>>>>>>>>> of forcing all entering and exiting wasps of touching the charged
>>>>>>>>> wires?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> > On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:58 PM, Darcy Whyte <
>>>>>>>>> darcy at siteware.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> > > Perhaps this can be DIYed:
>>>>>>>>> > > http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1421.html
>>>>>>>>> > >
>>>>>>>>> > > I could then just hang the thing near the hole and place some
>>>>>>>>> electrodes
>>>>>>>>> > > right there.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  I've seen one of those at a friend's cottage.  It is only $10, so
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> might be worth just buying one to find out how it works and adapt
>>>>>>>>> it for
>>>>>>>>> automatic use with your wasp nest.  We had one in the floor of our
>>>>>>>>> balcony.  It was a nuisance...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> You might want to adapt it with very fine wires brushing around the
>>>>>>>>> hole
>>>>>>>>> (but if the wire is too fine, it might fuse instead of delivering
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> intended shock to an insect...)
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> > > On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:54 PM, Darcy Whyte <
>>>>>>>>> darcy at siteware.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> > >> Let's say I have a nasty yellow jacket nest that's starting to
>>>>>>>>> cause
>>>>>>>>> > >> problems.
>>>>>>>>> > >>
>>>>>>>>> > >> I've dealt with these in the past when the next is very
>>>>>>>>> exposed but this
>>>>>>>>> > >> time I only have access to an opening about an inch where they
>>>>>>>>> are coming
>>>>>>>>> > >> and going.
>>>>>>>>> > >>
>>>>>>>>> > >> Has anybody ever tried to put some sort of zapper near an
>>>>>>>>> entrance? Seems
>>>>>>>>> > >> that should be an easy way to get them.
>>>>>>>>> > >>
>>>>>>>>> > >> A trap seems to take long because they only go into it once in
>>>>>>>>> a while so
>>>>>>>>> > >> it takes a long while.
>>>>>>>>> > >>
>>>>>>>>> > >> I figure if I put a couple of electrodes near the hole, they
>>>>>>>>> could
>>>>>>>>> > >> complete the gap.
>>>>>>>>> > >>
>>>>>>>>> > >> If this would work, I wonder how many bugs a couple of D-cells
>>>>>>>>> could zap?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>         slainte mhath, RGB
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>>> Richard Guy Briggs               --  ~\    -- ~\            <
>>>>>>>>> hpv.tricolour.net>
>>>>>>>>> <www.TriColour.net>                --  \___   o \@       @
>>>>>>>>> Ride yer bike!
>>>>>>>>> Ottawa, ON, CANADA                  --  Lo_>__M__\\/\%__\\/\%
>>>>>>>>> Vote! -- <greenparty.ca
>>>>>>>>> >_____GTVS6#790__(*)__(*)________(*)(*)_________________
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>  _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> Lab mailing list
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>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>> Lab mailing listLab at artengine.cahttp://artengine.ca/mailman/listinfo/lab
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>>> ---------------------- http://NoMiDesign.net/ http://krazatchu.ca/
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ Lab mailing list
>>>>>>>>> Lab at artengine.ca http://artengine.ca/mailman/listinfo/lab
>>>>>>>>>
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