[Lab] hardwood inlay finish.

[Adrian Jones]

Darcy, 

I generally have a can of each major tint but 95% of the time I use the “Natural” (untinted) on just about every kind of wood. 

One thing you should be careful of with tints is that different orientations of wood grain take up differing amounts and this can leave a very splotchy finish. It is better to seal the wood with shellac (must be the dewaxed stuff) first. This will even the colour and is certainly worth the bother!

As for “Tru Oil”, I have never tried it although the video suggests it’s worth a look. 

 

The thing that also needs to be remembered is that all of the oil finishes need multiple applications, have any excess oil removed quickly (~20 mins), and generally need additional protection. If you are doing so, wait at least 72 hours before covering any oil application with wax. 

 

Finally, you’re right. These oil finishes are just that... you won’t have much luck rinsing your rags in water unless you use a LOTS of liquid detergent.

 

Many thanks, 

 

.... Adrian

 

From: darcy.whyte at gmail.com [mailto:darcy.whyte at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Darcy Whyte
Sent: October-22-14 12:49 PM
To: Adrian Jones
Cc: lab
Subject: Re: [Lab] hardwood inlay finish.

 

Thanks Adrian,

 

Well I'm only in for 12 bucks or so, 

 

Now that we're connected I will certainly be on your back about wood finishing. :)

 

Danish was only 3 more dollars... 

 

Okay, I will get some Danish oil for another project... I suppose that canned stuff at home depot is okay? In the attached picture from home depot they had different shades. That got me thinking there was pigment and now there's another degree of freedom. So I didn't know what to get. My project had all different kinds of wood so I thought adding pigment would reduce the contrast.. Which of those oils should I have gotten?

 

And what about this video I found in youtube (it's at the bottom of my inlay rooster page)..  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk

 

Yeah, I read that safety note about linseed online and on the package. I'm freakishly afraid of fire so I made sure the rag was taken care of right away. I hang them so they're a lot of heat loss. Next time I'll rinse them in water or something and hang them. By the smell of it it's not soluble in water.. I suppose it needs some detergent to connect it to the water...


 

 

--

Darcy Whyte

 

Art+ inventorArtist.com <http://inventorartist.com/>  | Aviation rubber-power.com <http://rubber-power.com/> 

Contact: darcy at inventorArtist.com | 613-563-3634 by appointment (no text)

 

 

 

 

 

On Wed, Oct 22, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Adrian Jones <adrian at woodsgood.ca> wrote:

Darcy,
We live, we learn, we share.

I take your point about cost but as a seasoned woodworker with hundreds of
wood items under my belt (interesting turn of phrase, isn't it) I have to
contend that overall Danish oil is still a better all round finish. Part
varnish surface protection, part deep penetrating oil, and easy to apply and
rework. And with a paste-wax finish, yeah baby! If you want wood grain to
pop, this is for you!
One thing with linseed oil (esp. double boiled) is to carefully air out your
application rags and put them into a flame-proof container. If you ball them
up, they can spontaneously combust (I know, this has happened to me!).
Another reason to go Danish!

Just saying!

Many thanks,

.... Adrian


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