[Lab] yellow jackets and electricity
Richard Guy Briggs
rgb at tricolour.net
Mon Aug 29 17:03:54 EDT 2011
On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 04:56:03PM -0400, Paul & Andrea Mumby wrote:
> They are diodes. You just give them constant voltage like an LED. Mind you
> some need to be pulsed instead of constant.
Constant current, I hope you meant? That is what the driver you've
listed does.
> Here are some ebay links:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LOT-5-808nm-high-power-burning-laser-diode-1-watt-/170681506053?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bd691905
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/808nm-1000-mw-high-power-burning-laser-diode-1-watt-/180709833539?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a13253b43
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-808nm-1W-BLUE-DPSS-HIGH-POWER-BURNING-LASER-DIODE-/230664842498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b4b22d02
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-808nm-1W-YAG-IR-DPSS-HIGH-POWER-BURNING-LASER-DIODE-/230664835850?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b4b2130a
>
> This one is a driver:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-Laser-Diode-Drivers-405nm-445nm-burning-808nm-650nm-/120767948391?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1e54a667
>
> Also to note you need to cool these diodes with something (normally they get
> mounted into an aluminum laser body, or into an aluminum heatsink to keep
> them cool)
>
> They are only 1W so enough to burn paper, burn wood, or light small fires,
> but to an insect I suspect it would be devastating (especially if you could
> hit it with a bunch at once).
>
> - Paul
>
> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 2:17 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com> wrote:
>
> > I can't seem to find those lasers on ebay. Dont I need to build a power
> > supply to drive those?
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 2:04 PM, Paul & Andrea Mumby <themumbys at gmail.com>wrote:
> >
> >> Ooh, after hearing Aaron's suggestion about a laser (in the ultrasonic
> >> sensor thread). Why not use some cheap 1W laser diodes off ebay, make an
> >> arrangement that covers the opening so they have to fly through the beam.
> >> Would allow them to pass through unlike a mesh/screen and might be easier to
> >> catch them with (plus will allow the dead to fall out easier since no
> >> physical mesh there). Might need a few diodes but you can get like 50 packs
> >> for $20 on ebay from china lol...
> >>
> >> It can be your anti-wasp-laser-defense-sysem ;)
> >>
> >> - Paul
> >>
> >>
> >> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:10 PM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com>wrote:
> >>
> >>> I would probably swap out the batteries for a DC connection to a wall
> >>> wart, but you may want to monitor the wall wart's temperature.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:05 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> You mean just tape the on button and put it near the entrance? I wonder
> >>>> how far that would go on one set of batteries?
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:00 PM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com>wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Instead of a full DIY what about those $10 "tennis racket"-esque
> >>>>> electric mosquito killers? They might not be strong enough to kill bees but
> >>>>> maybe just a capacitor change would be sufficient...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:58 AM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Well the beez or going into the ceiling. So I figured putting a mesh
> >>>>>> across their entrance would work. If I zap them on the way up but not down
> >>>>>> then the'd just fall from there.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:50 AM, mike Jans <mjans at live.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Make sure your design allows for the dead to fall down and not clog
> >>>>>>> the mesh. From my experience with bees, when something gets in close to
> >>>>>>> their front door, they'll investigate immediately. From the traffic in the
> >>>>>>> video, that might become an issue. Perhaps make it adjustable. In the
> >>>>>>> beginning, you might sacrifice some kills for smooth operation. Later, you
> >>>>>>> adjust for a more thorough deathrate.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ------------------------------
> >>>>>>> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:42:24 -0400
> >>>>>>> From: krazatchu at hotmail.com
> >>>>>>> To: lab at artengine.ca
> >>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Lab] yellow jackets and electricity
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> You don't need to detect them at all...
> >>>>>>> Just use two parallel meshes at a distance of about 3/4 the length of
> >>>>>>> a yellow jacket...
> >>>>>>> With opposing charges on the meshes, the yellow jackets become the
> >>>>>>> trigger...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> This is not uncommon in Korea for mosquitoes...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Koolatron-Lentek-Biteshield-RZ02-Electronic/dp/B000H7CUSQ
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> And be careful with camera flashes, they can really hurt (and
> >>>>>>> kill)...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Michael
> >>>>>>> http://NoMiDesign.net/
> >>>>>>> http://krazatchu.ca/
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On 8/29/2011 11:31 AM, Darcy Whyte wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I don't think the Squirrels are reading my blog so we should be okay.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I've already got some parts on order (including a disposable camera
> >>>>>>> to get a zapper out).
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I'm a little concerned about how I will detect when they are in
> >>>>>>> contact with the mesh. Perhaps just a motion detector.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I just took some video of the little buggers:
> >>>>>>> http://mambohead.com/2011/08/arduino-bug-zapper-yellow-jacket-removal/
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> As you can see, they're going up a hole in the ceiling.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The chemical idea might work but can it go uphill into the ceiling?
> >>>>>>> I guess I have to seal the hole after I get rid of them.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 10:02 AM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com>wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> An Arduino-powered stun gun is not something I would want to fall
> >>>>>>> into the hands of a species as devious as the squirrels ;)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> If it's not high powered enough, and you're not against using
> >>>>>>> chemicals, I dealt with a nasty bee (my fiancee is allergic) problem in my
> >>>>>>> backyard using Raid "One Shot" wasp killer.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Tom
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:19 AM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Hi Richard,
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks for the note.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I figured keeping a coil charged might be expensive on the
> >>>>>>> batteries. Seems the next place to go is keeping a capacitor charged. As I
> >>>>>>> mentioned in the blog post, a disposable camera may have enough hardware to
> >>>>>>> do this. May not be as high a voltage but it might work.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> So it just comes down to triggering the high voltage thing.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I'm all ears on how to trigger it but I figured I could just use an
> >>>>>>> arduino because the labor content may be lower. There might be something
> >>>>>>> that can save some pennies but I think for the pain a community of yellow
> >>>>>>> jackets causes, it's okay if it uses an arduino for a couple days.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Even if the Squirrels steal it.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Darcy
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 8:59 PM, Richard Guy Briggs <
> >>>>>>> rgb at tricolour.net> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 01:32:19PM -0700, Darcy Whyte wrote:
> >>>>>>> > What about this angle:
> >>>>>>> >
> >>>>>>> > A motion detector of some sort.
> >>>>>>> > a coil
> >>>>>>> > a relay
> >>>>>>> > a 6v battery
> >>>>>>> > a wire grid over the opening
> >>>>>>> >
> >>>>>>> > When a yellow jacket is detected we charge the coil and then let it
> >>>>>>> > discharge through the grid.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I think the idea is to keep it charged so that it does its work on
> >>>>>>> contact.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> > The relay is to isolate an arduino from the coil charging action...
> >>>>>>> >
> >>>>>>> > What sort of coil would I need?
> >>>>>>> >
> >>>>>>> > If this will work at all....
> >>>>>>> >
> >>>>>>> > Also, what about detecting the bug when it touches the grid? I
> >>>>>>> suppose the
> >>>>>>> > problem with that is I'd need to isolate it from the arduino
> >>>>>>> somehow since
> >>>>>>> > the high voltage will zap the arduino too....
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Does it really need an arduino, or just a wired power supply and a
> >>>>>>> way
> >>>>>>> of forcing all entering and exiting wasps of touching the charged
> >>>>>>> wires?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> > On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:58 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>
> >>>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>> > > Perhaps this can be DIYed:
> >>>>>>> > > http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1421.html
> >>>>>>> > >
> >>>>>>> > > I could then just hang the thing near the hole and place some
> >>>>>>> electrodes
> >>>>>>> > > right there.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I've seen one of those at a friend's cottage. It is only $10, so it
> >>>>>>> might be worth just buying one to find out how it works and adapt it
> >>>>>>> for
> >>>>>>> automatic use with your wasp nest. We had one in the floor of our
> >>>>>>> balcony. It was a nuisance...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> You might want to adapt it with very fine wires brushing around the
> >>>>>>> hole
> >>>>>>> (but if the wire is too fine, it might fuse instead of delivering the
> >>>>>>> intended shock to an insect...)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> > > On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:54 PM, Darcy Whyte <
> >>>>>>> darcy at siteware.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>> > >> Let's say I have a nasty yellow jacket nest that's starting to
> >>>>>>> cause
> >>>>>>> > >> problems.
> >>>>>>> > >>
> >>>>>>> > >> I've dealt with these in the past when the next is very exposed
> >>>>>>> but this
> >>>>>>> > >> time I only have access to an opening about an inch where they
> >>>>>>> are coming
> >>>>>>> > >> and going.
> >>>>>>> > >>
> >>>>>>> > >> Has anybody ever tried to put some sort of zapper near an
> >>>>>>> entrance? Seems
> >>>>>>> > >> that should be an easy way to get them.
> >>>>>>> > >>
> >>>>>>> > >> A trap seems to take long because they only go into it once in a
> >>>>>>> while so
> >>>>>>> > >> it takes a long while.
> >>>>>>> > >>
> >>>>>>> > >> I figure if I put a couple of electrodes near the hole, they
> >>>>>>> could
> >>>>>>> > >> complete the gap.
> >>>>>>> > >>
> >>>>>>> > >> If this would work, I wonder how many bugs a couple of D-cells
> >>>>>>> could zap?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> slainte mhath, RGB
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> --
> >>>>>>> Richard Guy Briggs -- ~\ -- ~\ <
> >>>>>>> hpv.tricolour.net>
> >>>>>>> <www.TriColour.net> -- \___ o \@ @
> >>>>>>> Ride yer bike!
> >>>>>>> Ottawa, ON, CANADA -- Lo_>__M__\\/\%__\\/\%
> >>>>>>> Vote! -- <greenparty.ca
> >>>>>>> >_____GTVS6#790__(*)__(*)________(*)(*)_________________
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
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> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> --
> >>>>>>> ---------------------- http://NoMiDesign.net/ http://krazatchu.ca/
> >>>>>>>
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slainte mhath, RGB
--
Richard Guy Briggs -- ~\ -- ~\ <hpv.tricolour.net>
<www.TriColour.net> -- \___ o \@ @ Ride yer bike!
Ottawa, ON, CANADA -- Lo_>__M__\\/\%__\\/\%
Vote! -- <greenparty.ca>_____GTVS6#790__(*)__(*)________(*)(*)_________________
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