[Lab] yellow jackets and electricity

Darcy Whyte darcy at siteware.com
Mon Aug 29 11:58:19 EDT 2011


Well the beez or going into the ceiling. So I figured putting a mesh across
their entrance would work. If I zap them on the way up but not down then
the'd just fall from there.



On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:50 AM, mike Jans <mjans at live.com> wrote:

>  Make sure your design allows for the dead to fall down and not clog the
> mesh. From my experience with bees, when something gets in close to their
> front door, they'll investigate immediately. From the traffic in the video,
> that might become an issue. Perhaps make it adjustable. In the beginning,
> you might sacrifice some kills for smooth operation. Later, you adjust for a
> more thorough deathrate.
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:42:24 -0400
> From: krazatchu at hotmail.com
> To: lab at artengine.ca
> Subject: Re: [Lab] yellow jackets and electricity
>
>
>
> You don't need to detect them at all...
> Just use two parallel meshes at a distance of about 3/4 the length of a
> yellow jacket...
> With opposing charges on the meshes, the yellow jackets become the
> trigger...
>
> This is not uncommon in Korea for mosquitoes...
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Koolatron-Lentek-Biteshield-RZ02-Electronic/dp/B000H7CUSQ
>
> And be careful with camera flashes, they can really hurt (and kill)...
>
> Michael
> http://NoMiDesign.net/
> http://krazatchu.ca/
>
>
> On 8/29/2011 11:31 AM, Darcy Whyte wrote:
>
> I don't think the Squirrels are reading my blog so we should be okay.
>
>  I've already got some parts on order (including a disposable camera to
> get a zapper out).
>
>  I'm a little concerned about how I will detect when they are in contact
> with the mesh. Perhaps just a motion detector.
>
>  I just took some video of the little buggers:
> http://mambohead.com/2011/08/arduino-bug-zapper-yellow-jacket-removal/
>
>  As you can see, they're going up a hole in the ceiling.
>
>  The chemical idea might work but can it go uphill into the ceiling? I
> guess I have to seal the hole after I get rid of them.
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 10:02 AM, Tom Burns <tom.i.burns at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> An Arduino-powered stun gun is not something I would want to fall into the
> hands of a species as devious as the squirrels ;)
>
>  If it's not high powered enough, and you're not against using chemicals,
> I dealt with a nasty bee (my fiancee is allergic) problem in my backyard
> using Raid "One Shot" wasp killer.
>
>  Tom
>
>  On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:19 AM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com> wrote:
>
>  Hi Richard,
>
>  Thanks for the note.
>
>  I figured keeping a coil charged might be expensive on the batteries.
> Seems the next place to go is keeping a capacitor charged. As I mentioned in
> the blog post, a disposable camera may have enough hardware to do this. May
> not be as high a voltage but it might work.
>
>  So it just comes down to triggering the high voltage thing.
>
>  I'm all ears on how to trigger it but I figured I could just use an
> arduino because the labor content may be lower. There might be something
> that can save some pennies but I think for the pain a community of yellow
> jackets causes, it's okay if it uses an arduino for a couple days.
>
>  Even if the Squirrels steal it.
>
>  Darcy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 8:59 PM, Richard Guy Briggs <rgb at tricolour.net>wrote:
>
> On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 01:32:19PM -0700, Darcy Whyte wrote:
> > What about this angle:
> >
> > A motion detector of some sort.
> > a coil
> > a relay
> > a 6v battery
> > a wire grid over the opening
> >
> > When a yellow jacket is detected we charge the coil and then let it
> > discharge through the grid.
>
>  I think the idea is to keep it charged so that it does its work on
> contact.
>
> > The relay is to isolate an arduino from the coil charging action...
> >
> > What sort of coil would I need?
> >
> > If this will work at all....
> >
> > Also, what about detecting the bug when it touches the grid? I suppose
> the
> > problem with that is I'd need to isolate it from the arduino somehow
> since
> > the high voltage will zap the arduino too....
>
>  Does it really need an arduino, or just a wired power supply and a way
> of forcing all entering and exiting wasps of touching the charged wires?
>
> > On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:58 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>
> wrote:
> > > Perhaps this can be DIYed:
> > > http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1421.html
> > >
> > > I could then just hang the thing near the hole and place some
> electrodes
> > > right there.
>
>  I've seen one of those at a friend's cottage.  It is only $10, so it
> might be worth just buying one to find out how it works and adapt it for
> automatic use with your wasp nest.  We had one in the floor of our
> balcony.  It was a nuisance...
>
> You might want to adapt it with very fine wires brushing around the hole
> (but if the wire is too fine, it might fuse instead of delivering the
> intended shock to an insect...)
>
> > > On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 12:54 PM, Darcy Whyte <darcy at siteware.com>
> wrote:
> > >> Let's say I have a nasty yellow jacket nest that's starting to cause
> > >> problems.
> > >>
> > >> I've dealt with these in the past when the next is very exposed but
> this
> > >> time I only have access to an opening about an inch where they are
> coming
> > >> and going.
> > >>
> > >> Has anybody ever tried to put some sort of zapper near an entrance?
> Seems
> > >> that should be an easy way to get them.
> > >>
> > >> A trap seems to take long because they only go into it once in a while
> so
> > >> it takes a long while.
> > >>
> > >> I figure if I put a couple of electrodes near the hole, they could
> > >> complete the gap.
> > >>
> > >> If this would work, I wonder how many bugs a couple of D-cells could
> zap?
>
>
>         slainte mhath, RGB
>
> --
> Richard Guy Briggs               --  ~\    -- ~\            <
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> <www.TriColour.net>                --  \___   o \@       @       Ride yer
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> Ottawa, ON, CANADA                  --  Lo_>__M__\\/\%__\\/\%
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>
>
>
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