Reach out to artengine staff to recieve the glowforge login.

Basics #

Getting Started:

• Software: The Glowforge operates via a web-based app. A stable Wi-Fi connection is required.
• Powering Up: Gently slide the Glowforge shelf out and power on the machine. The switch is located on the back next to the power cord. Do the same for the separate smoke collector as well. The switch is also in the back.
• Logging In:
  1. Go to the login page: https://manufacturing.glowforge.com/users/sign_in
  2. Once logged in, navigate to the Dashboard and select Create New Design.
  3. Note that works in progress are automatically saved to the Artengine account and are visible to other users. For privacy, be sure to delete your designs after use (unless you don’t care that other users can see your stuff).
• Workflow:
  1. Place your material on the crumb tray inside the Glowforge.
  2. Select Blank Design and drag your design files into the workspace. The app supports files like SVG, PDF, PNG, and JPG.
  3. The lid camera will take a picture of the material, allowing you to position your design on it.
  4. First, determine what you’re printing on. If you’re using a Glowforge Proofgrade material, the machine will automatically detect it and load the correct settings. Far more likely, you will be using a non-Proofgrade material.

Safety #

• Recommended PPE:
  • Safety Glasses: While the Glowforge is a Class 1 laser device with a safety enclosure, it is still a good practice to wear safety glasses specifically rated for CO2 lasers.
  • Gloves: Use heat-resistant gloves when handling freshly cut or engraved materials, as they may be hot.
• Safety Precautions:
  • Ventilation: The most critical safety feature is proper ventilation. Always vent smoke and fumes to the outdoors or use an approved air filter.
  • Never Leave Unattended: Never leave the machine while it is operating. A small flare-up is normal, but a fire can happen quickly if you are using an incompatible or compromised material.
  • Material Compatibility: Only use materials that are known to be laser-safe. Never cut or engrave materials containing chlorine (e.g., PVC, vinyl), as they can produce toxic and corrosive gases that are harmful to you and the machine.
  • Fire Extinguisher: Keep a fire extinguisher (a CO2 or dry powder type is recommended) nearby and know how to use it.
  • Interlocks: The Glowforge has safety interlocks that immediately stop the laser if the lid is opened. Do not attempt to defeat these switches.
  • Cleanliness: Regularly clean the inside of the machine, including the crumb tray and lens, to prevent the buildup of flammable debris.

Settings #

• Non-Proofgrade Materials:
  • Materials not purchased through Glowforge are called non-Proofgrade materials. This does not mean the material is any less safe; it simply means you will have to set the parameters yourself. Don’t be scared—this is just part of the creative process.
  • Thickness is Key: Use a digital caliper to measure the thickness of your material. The laser works almost like a camera focusing on your material, so it needs to know the correct height. An incorrect thickness measurement can result in an “out of focus” or blurred print.
  • Placing Your Material: Place your material on the center of the bed if possible. The laser has a larger work area in the middle of the bed, especially when using higher speeds.
• Setting Parameters:
  • Once you’ve entered the thickness in the “unknown material” box, you will need to set the Speed and Power for each operation (cut, engrave, or score).
  • Speed: The faster the laser moves, the less time it has to burn the material, resulting in a lighter design or shallower cut. A slower speed allows for more burn time, resulting in a deeper design or cut.
  • Power: The intensity of the laser. Higher power equals more heat and a deeper burn.
  • LPI (Lines Per Inch): (For engraving only) The density of the engraved lines. Higher LPI creates more detailed and darker engraves.
• Testing:
  • When using non-Proofgrade materials, always perform a few tests on a small, inconspicuous piece first.
  • Refer to test sheets made by previous users, which show what various speed/power/passes combinations look like. This can give you a visual idea of what different intensities can produce.
  • You can start with a low power (around 20%) and then gradually increase it until you get the desired effect. If you start a design and can’t see anything appearing, you can either cancel it and try again with a slower speed and higher power, or you can be patient and wait for the pass to finish and then give it another pass without moving the material.

Materials #

Any material that isnt purchased through glowforge is called a “non proof-grade material”. Non proof grade does not mean the material isn’t any less safe. In more simple terms you’re going to have to learn how to use it without clear instructions (do not be scared, it is just the creative process). That being said, glowforge does have extensive resources about using non proof grade materials which includes community contributions here.

When using an proof grade materials with the laser cutter, start by testing on a smaller piece before hand. If that is not an option however, you can still place your material on the bed and load your design on it start with low power and slowly increase it until you get the desired effects. I will go more in depth on this in a bit.

Non-Proof #

First, use the digital caliper to measure the thickness of your design. The laser works almost like a camera getting into focus. It needs to know what height your material is on the bed for a clear path that reflects your design. If your thickness is measured incorrectly the outcome may look like an out of focus print. However sometimes it is not always possible to get an exact measurement. For example if it is not a flat surface. Measure what you think what will be best. Having a a wavy surface can make some cool effects so do not fret.

Once you have measured the thickness and entered it in the “unknown material” box place your material on the middle of the bed (if size allows). If you end up using a faster speed, the space in which the laser can move becomes more restricted to the middle. I usually aim for the most middle possible in case I end up wanting to use a higher speed.

Refer to the test sheets made by previous users. The pencil markings refer to speed/precision power/passes. Even if I am not printing on wood I still like to refer to these tests as it gives me a more visual idea of what these intensities correlate to.

Do a few tests. Start with low power, perhaps around 20%. The slower the speed of the laser, the more time it will have to burn. Faster speed: lighter design, slower speed: deeper design. Sometimes if you start a design and cannot see anything appearing it may be good to cancel it and try again with either a slower speed an higher intensity, or if you are patient, let it finish to give it another pass.

Experimentation #

This section is for the community to add their insights using a Hypothesis, Experiment, Result framework to make it easy to follow. Add photographs to give details on the outcome of our experimentation. Remember to include the image of the design you uploaded so people can see how it translates.

Hypothesis: What do you think will happen? Be specific about the material, settings, and expected outcome.

Experiment: Describe the steps you took. Include the exact settings you used (speed, power, LPI, number of passes) and any external factors.

Result: Was the hypothesis proven or disproven? What was the final outcome? What did you learn?

Example: Engraving on Seashells #

Hypothesis: I want to engrave a design onto a seashell. I will start with a very low power setting and a slow speed to see if the laser can etch the surface without damaging the delicate shell.

Experiment: I placed a shell on the bed and loaded my design.

Pass 1: I started with 10% power and a speed of 400. The result was nothing—no mark appeared on the shell.

Pass 2: Without moving the shell, I ran the same design again, this time with 20% power and the same speed. Still nothing appeared.

Pass 3: I ran the design one last time, this time with 60% power and the same speed.

Result: The third pass with a higher power level worked perfectly, and the design appeared quite nicely! This experiment showed that for delicate materials, it is critical to not move your material inside the bed. If you get a faint or non-existent outline, you can simply run another pass over it with adjusted settings until you get the desired result. The faint mark from a previous pass will not interfere with the final product.

Links / Resources #

1. GlowForge Login
2. GlowForge non-proof grade materials FAQ