<div dir="ltr">You want a vent to just go directly to the outside. Don't even need to filter it as that adds complexity/leaks with no benefit. It may even limit the volume so you don't have enough negative pressure around the area and you always have leaks. Doesn't matter what your cutting, it's all bad to breath and you want it sent outside.<div>
<br></div><div>If there's a sliding window you open it like a foot and make an insert with a nozzle (like an air conditioner vent). In my case I can actually put it in and out of the window in a few seconds. So even if it the insert leaked a bit of cold, the window is still closed most of the time (security and heat loss both).</div>
<div><br></div><div>I suppose it's tempting to want to remove the step of taking it in and out of the window and I suppose if you spend a bit more time you can make sure it doesn't leak cold. Even if one wants to try and share an exit (with lots of other hardware, connectors, switches, sensors), why not hook it up the easy way that works while you think about it and work on another venting project?</div>
<div><br></div><div>Your lungs might thank you. </div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr"><br><div><div><br></div><div><div>--</div><div>Darcy Whyte</div><div>
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<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 9:38 AM, Matthew Bells <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:matt@mbells.ca" target="_blank">matt@mbells.ca</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
There are fans like "dryer booster" or "in-line duct" fans that<br>
automatically turn on when these detect airflow. You might be also to help<br>
control the flow with dampers...<br>
<br>
The simplest seems to vent it through a window. You can make a rectangular<br>
insert out of wood or acrylic and run the vent through that. You could<br>
probably even cut it to size on your laser cutter... :-) you could probably<br>
leave this in throughout most months, and over winter too if you seal and<br>
insulate it well enough.<br>
<br>
Gases shouldn't be much of a problem if it is just a wood you are cutting.<br>
But you'll probably want to be more careful with plastic fumes. You should<br>
probably be prepared for the occasional accidental use of wrong material,<br>
like a bit of chlorine venting. From what I've heard, plastics can get mixed<br>
up once and a while so unless you are always buying ones that have the<br>
protective film marked at manufacture, then you may at some point come<br>
across some that was placed into the wrong bin. This usually isn't a problem<br>
as long as you stop the job quickly before the gases corrode the lenses.<br>
<div class="im HOEnZb"><br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Lab [mailto:<a href="mailto:lab-bounces@artengine.ca">lab-bounces@artengine.ca</a>] On Behalf Of Janick Bergeron<br>
Sent: 2014.January.27 14:36<br>
To: <a href="mailto:lab@artengine.ca">lab@artengine.ca</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Lab] Laser cutter venting<br>
<br>
</div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5">You could add one of those "switches" in your dryer vent line. If you mount<br>
it backward, it would prevent the flow from the laser cutter from backing<br>
into the dryer in the "CLOSED" position. In the OPEN position, the dryer<br>
would vent outside and no into the laser cutter.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-CHK100ZW-Keeper-Clamps/dp/B00004YWK2" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-CHK100ZW-Keeper-Clamps/dp/B00004YWK2</a><br>
<br>
BTW, I'm NOT advocating the use of such a switch as advertised, unless you<br>
want a mildew problem in your home!<br>
<br>
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