I also recently broke down the electronics costs as well, based on all hobby gear from hobbyking (rather than splitting it up as per his electronics document) cost is a little more, but more convenience (and it's likely overkill for this application). Also some of the parts he calls for in his doc are no longer in stock.<div>
<br></div><div><div>ESC - $25 - <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14634__Turnigy_TrackStar_1_10th_Scale_60A_Car_ESC.html">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14634__Turnigy_TrackStar_1_10th_Scale_60A_Car_ESC.html</a></div>
<div>Motor - $13 - <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15185__S2445_3200_Brushless_Inrunner_3200kv_.html">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15185__S2445_3200_Brushless_Inrunner_3200kv_.html</a></div>
<div>Battery - $14 - <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8912">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8912</a></div><div>Servo - $3 - <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__662__HXT900_9g_1_6kg_12sec_Micro_Servo.html">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__662__HXT900_9g_1_6kg_12sec_Micro_Servo.html</a></div>
<div>Radio - $20 - <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12177__HK_300_3_Channel_2_4ghz_FHSS_Ground_Radio.html">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12177__HK_300_3_Channel_2_4ghz_FHSS_Ground_Radio.html</a></div>
<div><br></div><div>All in electronics cost: $75 (plus shipping from china)</div><div><br></div><div>I'll be buying at least one set or two. And I know a couple others might be interested. So if you like we can do a combine order for parts for a bunch of these to save on shipping cost.</div>
<div><br></div><div>Let me know.</div><div><br></div><div>- Paul</div><div><div><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 8:47 AM, Jean-Marc LeBlanc <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jeanmarc.leblanc@gmail.com">jeanmarc.leblanc@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">Sweet thanks allot for the break down. I think this means i will be<br>
making one of these lol<br>
<div class="im"><br>
Jean-Marc Le Blanc<br>
---<br>
<br>
"Do you pine for the nice days of Minix-1.1, when men were men and<br>
wrote their own device drivers?" Linus Torvalds<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</div><div><div></div><div class="h5">On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 4:43 PM, Paul & Andrea Mumby <<a href="mailto:themumbys@gmail.com">themumbys@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
> Also note, this assumes no botched parts... If you botch a print, then you<br>
> will need to re-print that part. Which can cost a lot of plastic (since the<br>
> longer the print, the higher the chance of blowing it, so the largest parts<br>
> are the most likely to botch). That said you could print the whole set<br>
> without screwing a single part up if your printer is tuned well and working<br>
> well. Just pointing this out.<br>
> - Paul<br>
><br>
> On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 4:41 PM, Paul & Andrea Mumby <<a href="mailto:themumbys@gmail.com">themumbys@gmail.com</a>><br>
> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> First let me say, thank you for pointing this thing out to me... I totally<br>
>> want to build one now lol...<br>
>> Here are the estimates based on the UP software's print preview function.<br>
>> (which I've found to be very accurate)<br>
>> Now keep in mind that this is based on printing on an UP, using my current<br>
>> settings (with loose infill). And using ABS.<br>
>> You might want to use solid infill for some of these parts for structural<br>
>> strength, luckily it's most likely the smaller parts that need to be solid.<br>
>> Anyway, I've rounded up to the nearest gram on each of these.<br>
>> Spikes: 21g<br>
>> Drive Gear: 3g<br>
>> Front Suspension: 7g<br>
>> Gear 1&3: 4g<br>
>> Gear 2: 6g<br>
>> Gearbox Body: 9g<br>
>> Gearbox Bracket: 3g<br>
>> Gearbox Latch: 2g<br>
>> Rear Axle Bracket: 4g<br>
>> Rear Wheel: 12g x2<br>
>> Shell Back A: 65g<br>
>> Shell Back B: 64g<br>
>> Shell Front A: 51g<br>
>> Shell Front B: 51g<br>
>> Shell Top A: 27g x2<br>
>> Shell Top B: 27g x2<br>
>> Steering Linkage: 1g<br>
>> Wings: 44g<br>
>> That comes out to 467g for the whole set.<br>
>> I would guess 500g would be a safe bet.<br>
>> For the UP, a 750g spool costs about $50 shipped. For a makerbot,<br>
>> ultimaker or reprap, using PLA, a 5lb spool costs about $90 shipped.<br>
>> So... $33.33 in plastic for the UP method...<br>
>> And about $19.85 in plastic for Reprap/makerbot/ultimaker<br>
>> That's of course an estimate. Your print software settings can heavily<br>
>> affect the amount of plastic a given part consumes.<br>
>> Hope that helps.<br>
>> - Paul<br>
>> On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 4:04 PM, Jean-Marc LeBlanc<br>
>> <<a href="mailto:jeanmarc.leblanc@gmail.com">jeanmarc.leblanc@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
>>><br>
>>> how much do you think it would cost from the plastic to make these<br>
>>> mario kart shells<br>
>>><br>
>>> <a href="http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/08/05/turtle-shell-racer-%E2%80%93-high-power-edition-by-skimbal/" target="_blank">http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/08/05/turtle-shell-racer-%E2%80%93-high-power-edition-by-skimbal/</a><br>
>>><br>
>>> Jean-Marc Le Blanc<br>
>>> ---<br>
>>><br>
>>> "Do you pine for the nice days of Minix-1.1, when men were men and<br>
>>> wrote their own device drivers?" Linus Torvalds<br>
>>><br>
>>> _______________________________________________<br>
>>> Lab mailing list<br>
>>> <a href="mailto:Lab@artengine.ca">Lab@artengine.ca</a><br>
>>> <a href="http://artengine.ca/mailman/listinfo/lab" target="_blank">http://artengine.ca/mailman/listinfo/lab</a><br>
>><br>
><br>
><br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></div>